Here you can sell or buy your dream vw camper absolutly free.  Go on – have a look and see what id there

Cheers

First of all you must ask yourself why you want one, are you buying from the head or the heart! Put simply if you want something to go on trips with, that is reliable and cheap to run then you are probably reading the wrong article. Although a well maintained VW Camper or bus can be reliable they are not cheap to run. What you must understand is that these vehicles are between 25 and 50 years old (or thereabouts), and have lived long and interesting lives. They require care and attention and for that reason they will not suit someone who wants the perfect ride.

I recently read an article on buying Volkswagon Campers and the author suggested that you shouldn’t consider buying one if your reason was because you thought they where cool. Well I have to say, why else would you buy one? It’s certainly not for their reliability or fuel efficiency. The reasons why I love Volkswagen Campers so much are the fact that they are cool looking, classic shape, practical to a certain degree and I love the whole culture of owning one.

Anyway back to the matter at hand! Buying a Volkswagen Bus needn’t be a nightmare as long as your head does the buying instead of your heart. I must admit that’s easier said than done. It’s all too easy to turn up see what could be your new bus, rust and all and decide there and then, even before you have looked around it that you want it and you are going to buy it. When you look around a VW bus, try to add up in your head how much all those little repairs are going to cost. Bottoms of the doors are gone! 100 quid each, one rear corner gone! 250 quid. It all adds up and you will quickly reach thousands of pounds. OK, it’s difficult to find a perfect one and most will require some work and of course you might be looking for a project to work on your spare time, but nevertheless it’s not worth paying 4-6 grand on something that is going to require another 2 or 3 spent on it. Only buy a project if it’s a good deal and you can see that it will be worth considerably more once it’s done. There is no point in throwing money away after all.

Things to look out for:

Bottoms of the cab doors, this is not a reason not to buy a bus but factor in at least £100 for each new door. And remember, you are going to need a re-spray once finished. That’s another £1000.

Rusty sliding door. These can very difficult to obtain and will cost between £300-450 to buy new, so decide whether any rust can be repaired and if it can’t then factor this in to your costs.

Rust around the bottom 12 inches of the body work. This is very serious and will require the services of a professional bodywork specialist. This is very expensive process that could require welding, sanding, smoothing, painting. In most respects rust on the doors is more exceptable than rust on the body of the bus itself.

Check the wheel arches for rust as well these are made up of inners and outers and can be tricky to replace.

Check under the driver and passenger floor mates for holes. I could see the road through one I brought with my heart once!

Now check underneath, with that torch that you remembered to take with you.
Make sure chassis members are in good condition and the out riggers. You do not want to replace these, trust me you really don’t.

Make sure seals are intact also.

Now check the roof guttering. As with the body work this can cost a lot of money to put right.
Whilst you’re up there and if it has a pop-top; check the condition of the canvas and seals.

Before you start it up, let’s have a look at the engine.

Check any obvious oil or fuel leaks, especially near the gear box. Also, check for rust on either side of the engine to the right and left towards the rear light clusters. But most importantly make it appear that you know what you are doing.

This is usually enough for the current owner to admit to problems just as you get to them! You know the sort of problems that you probably would have noticed anyway. Now start the bugger! And listen to the beautiful sound of a Volkswagen Camper. Lets not get carried away, it’s your heart again and not your head.

Anyway, steering; make sure there is a steering wheel and that there is no play when wobbled.
And now the engine has gotten warm you can try the heater. First of all is warm air coming out? Heaters are a know problem with Volkswagen buses at the most serious the heat exchangers are knackered and will need replacing (not cheap), or at the very minimum it might just be that the hoses have holes and need repairing.

How much should I pay for a VW bus?
A pre 1967 split £30000 – £50000 for a mint totally un-molested dream 23 window Samba with traceable history, one lady owner
£20000 – £30000 for a totally restored splitty
£10000 – £20000 for good example that will require minimal work
£5000 – £10000 for a project
£500 for ones that’s been in a field for 30 years

A Bay Window £10000 – £15000 for a totally mint Californian import Westfalia
£7000 – £10000 for any other mint camper such as a Devon Moonraker (don’t ask me why people pay more for Westies)
£5000 – £7000 for a good bus that’s been well cared for.
£3000 – £5000 for ones that’s needs some work but nothing serious.
£500 for bag of crap

Basically if you are going to buy a mint 23 window Samba; look at spending at least £30,000. Jammie Oliver sold his for 55k. If you want a very good Bay Window that doesn’t require ant work and one that starts in the morning around £8000 should be enough.

Thanks

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

First of all, there’s your normal household recycling tasks that can easily be accomplished whilst on the road. It’s not hard to separate your paper/cardboard, glass and plastics in separate bags or containers ready for recycling. In fact I have three very small square plastic containers that fit perfectly in to my bottom cupboard below my cooker. Ok they are a little difficult to get at but a little sacrifice doesn’t hurt anybody. Because lets be honest sacrifices have to happen if you are going to live in Volkswagon Bus for a week! And because you are travelling it is very easy to find recycling points, nearly all campsites and supermarkets will have recycling centres.

Next there are arguably the more important issues, fuel consumption and the environment. There are many ways by which you can reduce your fuel consumption and at the same time save money. VW Campers are not well know for there economical drive. In fact my old 2.0ltr 1979 Bay Window would do around 25mpg on a run but around town that would drop to about 15mpg! Now that is disgraceful. OK, so here are the tips to make your VW bus a greener, meaner machine.

• Avoid “jack rabbit” starts and aggressive driving. One second of high-powered driving can produce nearly the same volume of carbon monoxide emissions as a half hour of normal driving.
• When possible, plan your trips to avoid rush hour. Stop-and-go driving burns fuel and increases emissions of smog-forming pollutants.
• Combine trips. Warmed-up engines and catalysts generate much less air pollution, so combining several short trips into one can make a big difference.
• When driving a manual transmission, shift up as soon as possible. Running in a higher gear decreases the rpm and will decrease fuel use and engine wear. But be sure you don’t drag your vehicle out in any gear. Make sure you are in the appropriate gear.
• Buy low-rolling-resistance (LRR) replacement tires. Switching to a typical set of replacement tires lowers a vehicle’s fuel economy as much as 4 percent. LRR tires, on the other hand, are specially designed to improve a vehicle’s fuel economy. Most major tire manufacturers now produce LRR models, so when it comes time to replace your tires, seek out a set of LRRs.

• Get a tune-up. Whether you do it yourself or go to a mechanic, a tune-up can increase your fuel economy.
• If you have a garage, use it as much as possible to keep your car warm in winter and cool in summer.
• Reduce your speed – A drop from 60mph to 50mph will reduce your fuel consumption by 10%
• Reduce the amount you use your brakes – The more you brake the more fuel you use. You should anticipate braking and take your foot of the throttle earlier. It’s the science of physics, if you have to use your brakes then you have used your throttle too much!
• Add lightness – Don’t carry a full water container, try not to fill your fuel tank up, and have a small gas canister. 10 gallons of water and full fuel tank adds 200 pounds or 90kgs to the weight of your bus. It will be cheaper to run and go up hills much easier.
• Tyres – Check your tyre pressures and check for undue wear. Driving on tyres with the wrong PSI (air pressure), can be dangerous add cost more in fuel consumption.
• Aero-dynamics – Keep your van sleek and slender. Roof racks can add up to 15% to your fuel consumption and that’s when they are empty. We know they look great and by all means wear them but think about long journeys. You can easily stick them in the back until you get to the show/meet etc. This also applies to luggage, ifs possible you should always put in your van and not on the roof rack. Keep your windows shut when ever possible.
• Servicing – A well serviced VW bus will burn fuel more efficiently giving you a better power to weight ratio. If that sounds complicated then it just means that your VW bus will be more powerful and you will need to put your foot down less.

Thanks

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

It is also too easy to forget that VW Bay Window Campers need frequent servicing; in fact some servicing tasks will require your attention at a frequency of as little as 2000 miles! It is incredible to think that most modern cars have service intervals of 10000 miles or more. The high operating temperatures of Air-cooled Volkswagens’ for instance require oil changes every 3000 miles to protect vital engine components from heat and wear related damage.

Take my word for it! I am no mechanic, so I have written this article not as a definitive DIY servicing article but more as a simple 20 step guide that you can either use yourself or help your local mechanic to ensure your bus remains on the road for years to come! I have scavenged I lot of the material from the web and rehashed it to suit Class Campers. And I have subsequently referenced at the end of this article all the sites and printed material that I used.

Thanks

Paul James Gadsdon – Class Campers

Step 1

Changing engine oil

Engine oils should be changed at 3000 mile intervals, to ensure that your engine doesn’t suffer from undue wear and tear. Some folks even suggest that it should be changed every 2000 miles. If this seems a little extreme just think about how much it will cost to replace your engine should you have a catastrophic failure due to excessive engine wear! The actual oil change interval is up to you, but I wouldn’t recommend that you go more than 3000 miles.

Step 2

Tyre pressures

It is important to your tyres are inflated to the right pressure. Your buses ride will be better and its road handling will be much improved, which also means that it will be safer. Check your tyre pressures at least every two weeks and always before a long journey. Make sure you know the correct tyre pressures for your model of VW Bus. I will be adding standard tyre pressures to Class Campers technical section soon but probably after the publish date of this article.

Step 3

Windscreen Washer bottle

The most peculiar set up I have ever seen! The washer bottle on a VW Bus is located behind the front kick panel to the left of the steering column. The peculiar part of the set up is the fact that it needs compressed air to force the water from the bottle to the windscreen. You can attach a normal air line at your local garage and pressurise to 40psi. Warning, do not pressurise it and more than 40psi because you run the risk of blowing the pipes of the washer nozzels. It’s a lot of work to put them back on!

Step 4

Gearbox Oil

Although the gear box should only be changed every 30000 miles it may need topping up from time to time. The fill plug is located on the side of the gear box near to the clutch cable. The official documentation suggests you will need a 17mm Hex spanner, but mines seems to be 18mm! Use Hypiod EP80/90 gear oil and fill so the oil is level with the bottom of the hole. It is essential that locate your bus on a flat surface when you perform this task.

Step 5

Spark plugs

Cleaning your spark plugs should be undertaken every 5000 miles or so. The electrode gap should be 0.7mm or 0.028in. You can clean the electrode with a little piece of emery cloth or a fine wet and dry. Personally I prefer to completely change my spark plugs every 10000 miles and check them every 5000 miles or so.

Step 6

Distributer Cap

When you replace or check your spark plugs it is necessary to inspect the condition of the distrubter electrodes because they can become corroded. If so they can be cleaned or replaced depending on the level of corrosion.

Step 7

Roter arm

The roter arm (inside the distributer), should be checked, cleaned or replaced every 5000 miles or when you check the condition of your spark plugs. They are not expensive so I prefer to replace new for old on every service.
Step 8

Ignition points

The Ignition points should be checked every time you undertake the general electrical servicing outline above. The points gap should be 0.4mm or 0.016in and should be clean. If they are pitted or corroded in any way they will need replacing.

Step 9

Fan Belt

Check every time you look in the engine bay! Its easy. 10 – 15mm play is fine, anymore and you should adjust. There are some small shims that can removed if the fan belt is to loose.

Step 10

Air filter

The air filter will need to be cleaned and the oil replaced every 5000 miles. Drain the old oil, clean and fill up with new engine oil. Make sure you dispose of your engine oil properly. Your local council will have an oil disposal unit.

Step 11

Fuel lines and hoses

Check the condition of your fuel lines every time you follow this service check list. If they are chapped in anyway replace them. Remember – no smoking! You can get very high quality steel lines if you prefer. Whilst you are doing this you can check the heater pipes for holes or badly fitting joints and repair if necessary. Having wholes or bad joints will reduce your buses chance of keeping you warm.

Step 12

Brake fluid

Brake fluid should be checked and topped up periodically. The brake fluid reservoir can be found behind the front kick panel.

Step 13

Brake Pads

The brake pads can be checked very easily on a bus, although you will need to remove the wheels. To do this jack up the vehicle and remember to always use axle stands. You will be able to see if your pads need replacing, they should be at least 7mm thick.

Step 14

Axle

The axle will need to be greased every 5-7000 miles. There are multiple points that need greasing. These are the steering idler that is located in the middle of the axle and the four trailing arm bushes at the ends. So a grease gun will be a great buy!

Step 15

Front & Rear Drums

The front and rear drums of your VW bus will require adjusting at lease every 6000 miles. To do this, you should insert a screwdriver in to the drum adjustment whole under the hub cap of your bus. More to follow

Step 16

Handbrake

The handbrakes on VW buses are notoriously bad and often hardly work at all. This is usually because they haven’t been adjusted for years. This isn’t a difficult task – more

Step 17

Wheel Bearings

Your wheel bearings will to be checked every 10000 miles or once a year which ever comes first. You should re-grease them every 20-30000 miles or two – three years. To check them jack up your bus (don’t forget to use axle stands), and grasp the top and bottom of your wheel and push the top and pull the bottom of the wheel. If there is any play they will need to be replaced. If there is any grinding when you spin the wheel then it is likely that the bearing will need replacing.

Step 18

Clutch

Your clutch should be checked for play periodically and should have around 20mm play at the foot peddle. You should also grease the clutch cable periodically to help its ability to work efficiently and to stop it breaking because it gets stuck.

Step 18

I cant think of any more but if anyone has any other tips please let me know.

Thanks

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

If you have surface rust that has developed from a chip in the paint, or even rust that has started as the result of the broken paint surface over a dent, you can take a few steps that will have your car looking great again in no time. Just because your car is old doesn’t mean that it has to be a rust bucket.

Prep the Rusted Area

The first step, as with any other household paint job that you may be familiar with, is to properly prepare the surface to accept the paint. In the case of a car body, the purpose is two-fold. Not only are you preparing the metal to accept the paint, but you are also repairing it cosmetically by creating a perfectly shaped surface that is smooth and free of defects.

The best way to begin preparing the surface is with an electric hand held grinder. Use a 150 grit sanding wheel to begin creating a smooth surface. There will be a definite drop off point where the paint has been chipped away. You want to use the sanding wheel to level that surface so that you can’t feel the difference between the painted surface and unpainted surfaces with your fingers. Try it with your eyes closed to see if you can really feel it or not. Use the sanding wheel to remove as much as the rust as possible, but don’t get frustrated if it wont take it all away. The next step will take care of that.

The 150 grit wheel is good for preparing the area around the rust, but a metal grinding wheel is best for removing the actual rust itself. You need to be careful with this wheel because it can remove a lot of material quickly. Make sure you don’t overdo it, and work very slowly. This is an important step because, aside from removing the last of the rust, the metal grinding wheel will smooth out any pock marks or pits that the rust has left in the sheet metal.

After you have removed as much rust as you safely can with the metal grinding wheel, then its time to move to hand sandpaper. I recommend 150 grit. This is going to be used to remove any last stubborn rust spots and to perfect the transition that you created between the painted edge and the bare metal. Take your time and do a great job here. This is the step where you will make or break the quality of your finish.

If there is a dent, or some really deep pock marks left over from the rust that you just can’t grind out without damaging the sheet metal, you can use Bondo or another body filler to fill the gaps, dents, pits, and just about anything else. This product is available at most auto parts stores and includes detailed instructions for its use. The key to success here, as with the first steps, it to make sure that the final sanding passes are perfect.

Prime and Paint

Once you are completely satisfied with the surface preparation, begin taping the area off. I would recommend using the blue painter’s tape that is available at most home improvement stores, as it does not leave a sticky residue when removed. Begin with a high quality auto body primer. The key is to apply very thin coats instead of trying to use one very think one. Paint builds its strength by being applied in layers. Apply three thin coats of primer, waiting about 10 minutes between each one. After the third coat has been applied, let it sit overnight so the primer can fully cure.

After the primer has been given a chance to completely dry, take a piece of 150 grit paper and very lightly hand sand the area. You are not trying to remove any paint, but are simply ensuring that the surface is smooth. Make sure you knock down any dust that may have accumulated in your primer coats while they dried.

The paint, just like the primer, should be applied in very thin coats. You should usually use three coats, but you may find that four or more gives you a deeper looking finish. If you are able to match the color exactly, you may want to use more so the repaired area blends seamlessly. If you are not able to get a 100% color match, then a few coats should be sufficient, as you don’t want the area to jump out visually. As with the primer, let it dry between coats – I would recommend at least two hours between coats. The label on the product may also give you a good recommendation for dry time.

After the final coat of paint has had the chance to cure overnight, give the entire car a good wash and wax to help blend the repaired area into the rest of the finish. Now it’s time to step back and admire your handy work. You repaired your own rust damage and, as long as you already owned a grinder, you didn’t spend more than £25.

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

There is nothing more upsetting than getting an unexpected dent or ding in your cherished Volkswagen Camper or bus. Whether the dent originated from a error on your behalf or from a rouge driver whilst you are getting your weekly shopping, they can ruin the pristine lines of your VW Bus. And as many of use are aware getting these types of repairs carried out at a automotive bodyshop can be very expensive. Most UK bodyshops will charge at least £45 an hour and even for a small dent you are looking at between 3 and 5 hours worth of labour. That’s a cool £135-£225 for a small dent in your VW van, just think of how much beer one can buy with that lot. Fortunately for drivers with dented VW Campers there are some methods you can use to remove those unwanted dents and scrapes for a very small amount of cash and some hard work. It has to be said though, not all dents will respond to the DIY approached but it is certainly worth a try. As long as you don’t make things worse, what have you got to lose! If you cant fix the problem and things are not any worse than they where when you set out then at the very worst you will just have to get the dent repaired at a professional bodywork garage. Nothing lost, nothing gained. And you could end up saving yourself a lot of money.

There are a number of things you will need in order to attempt a DIY dent repair. Firstly, you will need a dent repair kit. These are sold a nearly all automotive shops and can also be brought from specialist suppliers from the Internet. Normally these will contain everything you will need to remove small dents or scratches and some things they even contain special suction cups so you will not have to drill a hole in the bodywork. Drilling creates another issue of having to fill the hole once the dent has been removed.

Before you start you will need the following tools and kits:

1.Dent pulling kit or pulling tool

2.A dolly (metal flattening tool)

3.Metal working hammer

If you know anyone who has a Dolly and/or a metal working hammer then you can avoid having to purchase these items. Just make sure you give them back.

The steps needed to complete a dent repair are as follows:

1.(only if you don’t have a dent pulling kit), drill a 4mm hole in the centre of the dent using a power drill. you might want to use a metal punch to make a small indentation so your drill does not slip.

or; attach the dent pulling sucker or glue the plastic adapter to the centre of the dent (this will depend on the kit brought).

2.Thread the dent pulling tool though the hole you have drilled or attach the dent pulling tool to the plastic ring that you glued in to the middle of the dent. Then pull on either tool to flatten or pull out the dent.

3. Carefully hammer the front of the dent with the metalworking hammer whilst holding the dolly up against the back of the dent. It may be necessary to enlist the help of someone else to hold the dolly in place.

4.Use a medium grit wet and dry paper to remove all the paint from the dented area. try to remove the paint to at least 50mm more than the dented area. Then fill the entire area with a good quality body filler (P38).

5.Allow the body filler to dry completely, then carefully sand the area with wet & dry paper which has been wrapped around a block of wood. When sanding, begin with a 36-grit wet & dry and work up to a 120-grit wet & dry.

6.Get a good quality primer and apply at least 5 coats leaving 15 Min’s between each coat.

7.Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry. This will help to remove any scratches. The area should then be touched up with a matching automotive spray paint. If the paint is not smooth, re sand and repaint the area until you have a smooth surface.

8. After a few weeks use t-cut to get a final polish

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

1968-70 have 5 bolts with a 205-6mm distance between adjacent holes and are called wide-5s (US).

71-79 buses had disck brakes and have normal looking wheels with a 5×112 bolt pattern. The rims are 5 1/2″ wide and the offset is ET39. We cant find out at the moment what ET stands for but it represents the distance in millimeters from the centerline of the rim to the back of the bolt face.

If you wish to fit a different set of wheels to your bus you must also consider the following issues and points.

Will the wheel actually fit properly and will the bodywork around the the wheel hub require modification?
Are the stock studs long enough?
Check the thread size of the new nuts. You do not want to force them on to the hubs.

All in all it it very importnat that you consider carefully all the things you might have to do in order to fit new wheels to your VW Bay Window bus.

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

All models apart from additions at bottom of page

Overall Length 4420mm
Overall Width 1765mm
Wheelbase 2400mm

Front track 1386mm

Rear track 1439mm

Pick up -Single cab is 4470 length
Large bed is 1980 width
Standard is 1765 width

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

or you send the credit card number via fax, our fax number is +49 – 53 61 – 5 20 10.

We need to know the chassis number of your vehicle, the name of the vehicles’ owner and the complete address where we should send the certificate to.

For the research we need 4 – 5 weeks!

AutoMuseum Volkswagen
Dieselstrasse 35
D – 38446 Wolfsburg
http://automuseum.volkswagen.de/

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast

Effective Gear Changing
Try to drive in the highest gear possible without labouring the engine. A vehicle travelling at 32mph in third gear uses 22 percent more fuel than at the same speed in fifth gear. But remember do not labour the engine – use your gears efficiently.

Keep to a speed
When driving on the motorway, remember to keep to a specific speed. The slower the better. For instance driving at 50 Mph will increase fuel efficiency by 50% over driving at 75Mph. Use the cruise control if your car has it.
Lightly on the Throttle
Only ever pres the accelerator pedal very lightly. Never stamp your foot down hard on the accelerator. When you encounter a hill try to keep the accelerator pedal at the same level that it was before you reached the hill. When the engine starts to labour, change down a gear.

Do not brake too much
Whist this sounds strange, the more you have to brake is directly proportional to the amount you have used the accelerator. Try to anticipate junctions and let the car slow at its own pace. You can save up to 30% of your fuel driving this way.

Switch off your engine
But only do this if you can see that you will be waiting for more than a couple of minutes. It takes 1 minute worth of normal driving fuel to start your car and if the engine is cool then the catalytic converter will not be working at its full efficiency. So only turn your engine of if you have just been stopped by a red traffic signal or you are in a long tail back.

Add Lightness
Think about what you need on a journey. If you do not need something, do not pack it. The lighter the load, the lower the fuel consumption and emissions, and the higher the fuel efficiency.

Tyres
Make sure your tyres are inflated to the correct pressure. Under inflated tyres will reduce your vehicles fuel efficiency. It will also cause premature tyre wear. Check your tyre pressures once every two weeks. . When you next replace your tyres make sure you buy ECO tyres that have been designed for fuel efficiency.

Roof Rack
Unless you absolutely need one, do not ever drive with a roof rack on your car. These can decrease fuel efficiency by up to 15%

Windows & Air Conditioning
Although most people know that air conditioning can decrease fuel efficiency by up to 20%, little people know that having two or more windows open can decrease fuel efficiency by up 32%. So what do you do?. The most fuel efficient method is to have the windows shut and the air conditioning off. But lets be honest, most of us are not going to do that. So it is actually more fuel efficient to have your windows shut and use the air conditioning wisely. Do not have your car like a fridge; just have the air con on just to make the temperature bearable.
Buy a New Car
New cars come in all shapes and sizes, but it is possible to pick a new car that can greatly reduce your fuel bill, your fuel emissions and your conscience. Choose an economical car, this means primarily a small car. Small cars are usually much more economical than larger cars. Also, if you choose the best tax class of car, such as a Ford Fiesta 1.4 diesel you will only pay £40 a year for road tax.

Consider diesel engines and LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) cars – all have lower CO2 emissions than standard petrol cars. However, diesel cars tend to create more particulate emissions so make sure the model you are choosing has a particle filter.

Clean Air Filter
One of the most common reasons for a drop in fuel efficiency is a dirty intake filter. Make sure you clean or change this regularly. A decrease in air in to the engine will cause a large drop in fuel efficiency.

Clean Spark Plugs
Make sure your spark plugs are in good condition. Renew the plugs and HT leads at intervals specified by the owner’s manual or at every service interval.

Class Campers – The Home of the Volkswagen Camper & Bus Enthusiast